Vehicle specs before swap:
- 1982 CJ7 w/ 258, T150, D20
- New T-case: late-model wide ratio (6.32:1) 1st gear and 1980 Scout Dana 300. (Earlier T19s reverse is over and up, later reverse is over and down).
- AMC Engine
1. Find an IH transmission to AMC bell housing
Pros: Direct bolt in for engine and transmission, low cost to purchase (less than $150)
Cons: Finding one. They had a 2-year production run, they weigh 100 pounds, they’re 3″ longer than a standard CJ bell housing, You’ll have a whole bunch o’ clutch issues to deal with.
2. Buy an input shaft/bearing retainer kit from Parts Mike or AA
Pros: Off-the-shelf parts specifically used for this application.
Cons: Cost ($200-500), have to pay the transmission shop to swap in the shaft
3. Send the input shaft to Moser Engineering and have them grind the IH shaft to Jeep dimensions
Pros: Cost (less than $80), when done you can use all stock Jeep clutch components and geometry.
Cons: You have to pay transmission shop to remove and swap in the shaft, have to send Moser a clutch disc, pilot bushing, and sample input shaft.
I chose option #3…
I didn’t think anything of it when I took this photo, but there is a problem.
If you look at the T150 shaft, you’ll notice that the shaft is the same diameter from tip to the front of the bearing retainer surface. The T19 shaft has more material in front of the bearing retainer surface.
Having the wider surface means that the Scout bearing retainer must be used with a Scout clutch fork and T/O bearing. But, it still may not work.
A Closer Look
Look at the below photo. The T19 (top tranny) has a bearing retainer that is cut down to Jeep length. The neck of the retainer isn’t the same length as the T150. So, this would mean (assuming I’m using a Jeep bell housing and custom clutch fork and T/O bearing) that the T/O bearing would have less room to travel than it should have.
The solution to the bearing retainer problem: Buy a bearing retainer for a Ford T19, and have the ‘shaft re-machined to fit that retainer. T19 with input shaft re-machined in bearing retainer area and Ford T19 bearing retainer:
I used my T150 bell housing, but I had to measure and drill holes for the 1/2″ studs on the tranny. It took some time, but it worked out very well.
Notes And Things To Look Out For
- Since I used my T150 bell housing, this unit bolted right in. I didn’t have to change/chop/alter any clutch part, buy any new clutch parts.
- I used the factory skid plate but had to drill 2 holes for mounting and find some suitable rubber bushings for mounting. The shifter tower lined up with my original hole, but I need to lengthen the shifter.
- I also swapped the reverse light switch from the T150 to the T19. The T150 has a spade terminal connection, the T19 has a couple of pins. It was easier for me to swap the T150 switch on the T19; they’re identical and I don’t have to chop the harness and make something new (no big deal, but one less thing to worry about).
- D300: Well, just bolted that on the back of the T19. The speedo gear input is in a different spot, but I had enough length to bolt it there and it’s the same thread as the D20.
This combo rendered my driveshafts useless. It added a few inches, so I had to order new. I did have an unforeseen problem. I have to make a trip to the exhausted man. The added length of the T19/D300 interfered with my mufflers, custom duals. So, I had to chop out one to get the t-case in.
Here are some crawl ratio numbers factoring 35″ tires, 4.88 R&P:
T150-D20 Low Range T19-D300
29.62 1st >> 80.80 1st
17.34 2nd >> 39.51 2nd
09.91 3rd >> 21.48 3rd
31.40 Rev >> 12.79 4th
xxx >> 88.99 Rev
T150-D20 High Range T19-D300
14.59 1st >> 30.84 1st
08.54 2nd >> 15.08 2nd
04.88 3rd >> 8.20 3rd
15.47 Rev >> 4.88 4th
xxx >> 33.96 Rev